Turkey

Alarm. 0430, are you joking me? Surely not time to get up yet? Maybe just a few more minutes. Damn solar hot water. As I soon realised, a cold shower is far superior to any caffeinated beverage in the morning. By the time Vicki was ready to shower, the water was hot. At least one of us avoided frostbite.

0525. Loud knock at the door. The coach driver was ready to go. 5 minutes mate!

Hot Air Balloon. We didn’t know what to expect. I had previously ballooned over the Yarra Valley with Vicki’s Dad, Jay. That was an awesome experience in itself but we took comfort in the strict Australian safety regulations. Not sure it is quite as strict here and there were literally dozens of balloons going up for what appeared to be a simultaneous launch. Glad about the still conditions. We jumped in the wrong basket at first and had to sprint to the right one. Much less cramped in here, cheers.

Take off. Vicki started off well but struggled a little with the rapid ascent. I counted 37 balloons in the distance which didn’t seem to bother us until we descended into the valley. The balloon operators were extremely skilled. They flew literally inches from the cliff faces, we could (and did) reach out to touch the cliffs. The operators then thought they’d have some fun at our expense. At one stage there was a balloon beside us (the canopies brushed), one above us (inches from the top of our canopy) and a cliff on the other side. We were trapped with nowhere to go. What an experience, magnificent views and a bit of thrill seeking to boot. Worth every Euro!!

Tour. Due to our tight schedule, we backed a tour on to the balloon ride. We were back at the hotel at 0830 and the tour started at 0900. No time for rest, a bit of brekky and off we went. We explored many chapels (in the caves), intricate underground dwellings, various valleys and a heap of natural wonders. The tour wrapped up about 1800 and after starting our tour at 0400 we were notably wrecked.

Dinner and off to bed.

Cappadocia. We had heard only that Cappadocia was a town of many ancient, formerly inhabited caves and the region came highly recommended by all that had visited. We were happy to leave it at that and avoided viewing pictures of the region on the internet prior to our arrival. We simply didn’t want to spoil the surprise. The thought of a “cave town” conjured up many mental images, the first of which (for me) was dragging Vicki indoors by the hair to prepare the meat I had just captured and killed with my bare hands. I even wanted to doctor a photo but Vicki simply wouldn’t allow it. Spoilt sport. I think she knew that in a weird and warped sort of way, it would of turned me on. Lets admit it guys, the thought of dragging a woman into a cave turns us all on. Primal instinct or simply a nostalgic view of how it could have been? If you don’t agree then you are either lying to yourself, your spouse is over your shoulder or you are a woman. I will pay for my commentary, that I assure you…

Snow. Upon arrival in Cappodocia (Kayseri Airport), we immediately noticed the cooler climate, cleaner air and snow-capped mountains in the distance. A beautiful sight for anyone - especially for me. I hadn’t seen snow before. Excitable like a small child in a petting zoo, the mood was set for our visit. A tear came to eye but I’m certain that was the cool air, it must have been.

A Mercedes Minivan was our mode of transport to the Hotel. About an hour from where we were staying – Goreme. Comfortable, clean, new and European. What more could you ask for when travelling this distance? The trip was quite dull to begin with then the sights began to appear. We now knew what people meant by “Cave town” and “Fairy Chimneys”. There was some serious exploring to be done and we knew we’d need help to get it all done in the time we had.

Traveller’s Cave Hotel. A gimmicky name anywhere else but not here. In Cappadoccia, cave based accommodation was common and we were soon to sleep in one. I walked slowly behind Vicki as we approached the door to our cave scanning the surrounds for a club, large rock or even a chair... !

Cave. What a treat. I felt like Fred Flinstone. Of course it was modernised with wireless internet, Cable TV, towel warmer and Heating but it was a real cave. Took me a while to get over it and forgot for a moment that there was a whole region to explore so out we went for our first tour.

Pottery. Our first stop was a pottery centre. This business had been passed down from generation to generation. A smooth talking guy with a moustache (notice a trend yet?) took the lead and talked us through the history of the family business and the process of crafting the ceramics. A real art, everything hand sculpted using 3 different types of clay, design sketched freehand then hand painted. Vicki gave the pottery wheel a go but first had to dawn on some fashionable pants. As good as she looked, she was unfortunately unable to replicate her Grandmother’s pottery skill.

Rose Valley. Next stop, the Rose Valley. We were expecting flowers but the name was suggestive of the rock colour in the Valley as opposed to the type of Flora. What a magnificent 6 or so kilometres of terrain (I think it stretched for about 14km but we did only a portion of it). This place oozed natural beauty. We were lucky enough to be guided through some of the caves used by the Byzantines. Chapels, churches, storage areas, sleeping quarters, kitchens and pigeon holes (not for mail but for real pigeons). Their eggs were used to make plaster and their droppings for fertilizer.

Turkish Caveman. The tour guide warned us about the man in the cafeteria we were soon to visit. The cafeteria was deep in a Valley cave and a welcome pit stop after hiking for a couple of hours. He was known to repeat stories from day to day and a notorious talker. He welcomed us with open arms. I’m sure it gets a bit lonely in the mountains. After selecting a drink and settling down to rest our tired legs, he began to tell his stories in Turkish. The guy didn’t breath for about 7 minutes. We only stopped for about 15 minutes and he spoke for about 14 of them. We couldn’t help but start giggling (including the tour guide) like school children as he linked his every story without once pausing for input. He didn’t make eye contact when he spoke, he simply looked into the horizon whilst spewing his ramblings. We didn’t understand a word he said but were very much entertained the entire time.

Sunset. We reached the highest point overlooking the valley to watch the sunset. The Valley was visually appeasing without the help of the descending sun but boy did it amplify the colour and beauty of the Valley. Superb.

Turkish Night. All you can eat and drink coupled with traditional Turkish entertainment. Twirling dervishes were a highlight although men in dresses spinning around begged a few questions. Again, I will take this up with Aiden and Engin. Food was great, the beer was cold and plentiful and the entertainment sound. A very good way to end a very long day.

Breakfast. Our Nisanyan house stay included breakfast. We were expecting something similar to what we consumed in Istanbul but we couldn’t stand the idea of another breakfast buffet. The waiter in the dining room started to bring out plate upon plate of breads, cheeses, fruit, olives, conserves, cakes and the list goes on. He then asked how we would like our eggs cooked. Country fresh farm eggs cooked just the way you like them. Magnificent spread. No time for a nap.

Ephesus. Ancient city of ruins. The condition of some of the ruins was startling. Who would have thought they would be this well preserved after so many years and after such extensive excavation. We took a horse and cart to visit the seven sleepers before being dropped off at the top entrance. Vicki spent the whole time asking if the Horsie was ok and to slow the cart down. It stretches for about 2km downhill and you definitely don’t want to be walking up and back. There were two stadiums made of rock or theatres if you will. I likened them to the MCG and Telstra Dome in seating capacity. I miss my footy. Go Port!! The floor at times was covered in marble. Tricky to keep your footing in some parts as Vicki quickly found out. She didn't get up for a while.

Pool. Back to Nisanyan house. It was quite a hot day and we’d worked up a sweat. Vicki took a nap and I headed straight to the pool. Beer and pistachio nuts in hand, I set out for a dip. The pool was a small hike from the hotel and was literally dropped into the side of the mountain. As the pool was made of stone, the water was icy cold. Laying in the pool peering into the countryside I was at piece with my surroundings. Not a soul in sight or a sound to be heard. Marvellous.

Dinner. We walked back down to the Valley for dinner. We were greeted (as always) on the street. We decide to follow Gokhan’s advice and eat at his restaurant. They gave us a freebie mezza dish and once we had eaten served us a complimentary large fruit platter. We were touched so we invited them to join us. We ended up talking for a couple of hours. We met Gokhan, Ali, Ali and Ozman. Very nice people. They were so nice that they bought us gifts - Sirince souvenirs including salt and pepper shakers, coffee cups and some other assorted goodies. Genuine, nice, hardworking people. Ali (the owner of the restaurant) worked on a peach farm before saving enough pennies to open his own restaurant at 25. Good on him. He also had a thing for Vicki. Not sure I would have received the same attention if Vic wasn’t there.

Goodbye Istanbul. We flew into Izmir from Istanbul this morning but that is unfortunately all we got to see of Aiden’s home town. From there we caught a minibus (about an hour) to Selcuk which really is a just a transport hub for the region. It is quaint but we followed Rod’s advice and stayed in Sirince as opposed to the majority of tourists visiting the region who stay in Selcuk. We owe you one, Rod. Sirince was a real treat or ‘retreat’ if you know what I’m saying.

After some lunch in Selcuk we made our way to Sirince in yet another minibus (they seem to be the only form of transport in the more rural areas but they always run to time and are really cheap).

Sirince. A small town embedded deep in the mountains about 20 kms from Selcuk. Nothing much to do here but that suited us just fine. Cobblestone roads, quaint little cottages, dense vegetation (mainly olive trees), restaurants and a modest sized bazaar. It was once a Greek Village before they moved (or got kicked) out. That explained the abundance of Olive trees in the area.

Nisanyan Inn. If Sirince was a box of Cadbury favourites then Nisanyan house was the Turkish Delight. It was the higher most hotel on the mountain. From there you could see well into the Valley and the matching teraccotta rooftops of all the houses in town. Breathtaking. Being a wine region, I could explain it only as a cross between Olinda and the Yarra Valley (Melbourne) and ofcourse a pinch of Sydney Rd, Coburg!

http://www.nisanyan.com/

Dinner. We ate in the Valley in one of the Premier restaurants. Very nice indeed. For those who haven’t attempted it yet, try a pottery kebab one day. As the name suggests it is served in a clay pot. You won’t be disappointed. Oh and Vicki found her first hair. She didn’t make a scene just stopped eating… more for me!

Back to the hotel for a beer and a casual lay around in the guest quarters. We had it to ourselves which made it even more enjoyable. Bedtime.

Hotel Golden Age Deluxe 2. We moved hotels to be closer to the action in Taxim. Well worth it. Vic found a great hotel last minute with superb views of new Istanbul.

The Bosphorous. The ferry cruise down the Bosphorous strait was magnificent. The hillside along the banks were lined with character homes, each one more appealing than the other. Plenty of castles and historic buildings, breathtaking views and relatively smooth sailing. Nice way to get a feel for the sheer size of this city.

Metro. We caught trains and trams all day. Not a single taxi. The public transport here is not great but we made it work today. The token thing shit me a little. You have to buy them from designated booths before getting through the turnstiles. I suppose it is no different than jumping on a tram in Melbourne without any change to buy a ticket however it was a little frustrating. Particularly when you catch a tram headed in the wrong direction and have to do it all over again.

Maze. We took a wrong turn after disembarking the Ferry at Eminou. Found ourselves trapped in a labyrinth of stall line streets. Scary for a while. We were definitely lost. So many shonky merchants wanting a piece of you. All the while frantically scanning the streets for a familiar landmark. We popped out in a little laneway filled with doormen, gold stores, upmarket cafes and Versace clad locals. I wouldn’t be surprised if they bought their clothes from one of the dodgy merchants we just passed. An example of the extreme unpredictability of this city. One moment you are amongst the Turkish battlers, the next the disgustingly wealthy. Lucky for us the next moment was familiar territory.

Bassilica Cistern. We didn’t get a chance to visit this underground historical gem earlier in our travels so thought we’d come back to it. The chamber contained row after row of marble columns supporting the ceiling all encased within 4 metre thick solid firebrick walls. It was used to supply water to Topkapi palace (to name one) when the city was known as Constantinople. The clear highlight was the two Medusa heads in the North-West corner of the chamber. One laying on its side and the other upside down. They don't really know why they were arranged this way but some of the theories are interesting. I won't get into it. So well preserved and pleased we came back.

Dinner. We dined on a rooftop terrace in a really funky part of Taksim. Loved it. Live Turkish music to top off the great food and atmosphere. Again we headed to a patisserie for dessert.

Walk. One last walk down the main boulevard knowing that this would be the last we’ll see of Istanbul for a while. Not to mention the need to burn off a few calories. Abbier, check out the sign on the shop window!